EL PODER DE LA MUJER EN LA MODA

La primera diseñadora que tuvo un papel preponderante en la Moda de finales del XIX y primer tercio del XX fue la gran Jeanne Paquin, por supuesto.

Nacida en Saint Denis en 1869 sus diseños no solo revolucionaron la silueta y estética del momento, además supo ver como se tenia que enfocar el negocio de la moda y realizo una gran proyección internacional algo que en esa época era muy avanzado.

Sus comienzos como costurera en la Maison Rouff ( alcanzando el nivel de jefa de taller ) le sirvieron para aprender lo suficiente, tanto como para dar un gran salto. Tras su matrimonio con Isidore Réne (empresario del ramo)nació la gran casa de Alta costura Casa de modas Paquin .

Entre sus clientes se hallaban los miembros de la realeza Europea y las actrices más notables y famosas de la época. Destaco su creatividad y concepción innovadora del trato al cliente basado en la cercanía y atención personal, cosa poco usual en estos años.

Pionera en la expansión Internacional abrió sucursales en Madrid , Londres , NY, Buenos Aires , creando así un vasto imperio que llego a tener 2000 empleados.

Organizo el primer desfile de Moda con música creando así un espectáculo que sentó precedentes. Fue pionera también en mostrar sus creaciones en ambientes de cultura y espectáculos como la Opera a la que asistían jóvenes actrices con sus creaciones.

También creo diseños para Teatro siendo algo muy innovador en esos años. Sus compañeros diseñadores la eligieron para encabezar la primera exposición colectiva publica de alta costura en la gran Exposición de 1900.

Sus creaciones con inspiración Oriental y sus efectos visuales de telas superpuestas y colores delicados fueron su seña de identidad. Sus creaciones eran de un marcado estilo artístico casi pequeñas obras de arte.

Fue la primera diseñadora que recibió la Legión de honor en el ámbito del comercio. También fue elegida presidenta de la Cámara sindical de la Alta costura.

También creo ropa para la mujer activa y que ejercitaba deportes diseñando prendas más practicas y cómodas.

Se retiro en 1920 pasándole el testigo a su asistente Madeleine Wallis que hasta su muerte en 1936 fue la diseñadora de la firma.

Tras una fusión con la casa Worth para mantener el estatus que tenían ambas casas se mantuvo abierta hasta el año 1956 .

Ya soplaban otros vientos y Dior captaba toda la atención del momento.

Fuentes y bibliografía :

Moda: 150 años.Modistos, diseñadores y marcas.-Seeling Charlotte-2013

Paquin une retrospective de 60 ans de Haute Couture -Lyon Musee historique des tissus-1989

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