LA PRIMERA DISEÑADORA DE LA HISTORIA.

Marie Jeanne Bertín conocida como Rose Bertín fue la primera mujer que alcanzo el rango de Diseñadora de Moda en la historia.

Fue para más exactitud llamada Ministro de la Moda categoría que se concedía en esos años a los estilistas que creaban para los reyes.

La historia de Rose Bertín en cierto modo es paradójica, porque dado su origen humilde ya que provenía de una familia de pocos recursos (llamados entonces la plebe) no pudo ostentar un cargo en la corte Francesa del siglo XVIII bajo el reinado de Luis XVI y Marie Antoinette en el departamento que le correspondía por su trabajo y su labor de creadora y costurera.

Esta es la increíble vida de una mujer que a los 15 años llega a Paris con pocos medios y abre una tienda de ropa, la cual gracias a un gran talento muy pronto se hace con la clientela más selecta; la Nobleza.

La Duquesa de Chartres una de sus clientas más importantes le presenta a la reina Marie Antoinette recomendándola como una gran costurera y a partir de ese fortuito encuentro se creara un vinculo muy intenso, llegando a ser su confidente y amiga .

Se traslada al palacio de Versalles y en un cuarto, que se habilita como taller de costura realiza para Marie Antoinette increíbles vestidos y pelucas que parecen fantasía onírica, entre los años 1770 hasta su destronamiento en 1792.

Ejecuto profundos cambios en la sociedad Francesa en cuanto a indumentaria se refiere creando junto a Leonard Autié pelucas inimaginables y vestidos espectaculares.

De ese cuarto salían sus ostentosos vestidos realizados en tejidos de lujo y bordados con esmero junto a las imponentes y monumentales pelucas (aunque difíciles de llevar ) que le reportaran fama mundial.

La imitada elegancia de la Reina estableció reputación mundial a la “Couture Francesa”. Todas las damas Nobles de Europa copiaban sus diseños. Las creaciones que realizaba Rose Bertín .

Los precios de esos vestidos eran desorbitantes, costaban más de 20 veces el valor del trabajo de una modista de a pie. El pueblo acusaba a Marie Antoinette de derroche mientras se morían de hambre. Ya sabemos el final y como termino la reina, tras la Revolución Francesa.

Bertín se traslado a Londres durante algunos de los años que duro la Revolución Francesa. En realidad solo amaba su profesión y quería seguir con ella.

Regreso a Paris en 1795 y abrió otra tienda. Pero la moda ya había cambiado pues corrían otros tiempos y le paso el negocio a su sobrina y se retiro.

Murió en 1813.Su legado al mundo de la Moda es incuestionable.

Fuentes y bibliografía:

“Queen of fashion :What Marie Antoinette -Caroline Weber- 2007

“Los magos de la moda de Rose Bertín a Christian Dior” -Anny Latour- 1961.

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